“Mount K2 and Man Endurance”

“Mount K2 and Man Endurance”









  “The Life depends upon your hope, the life gets end when your hope ended”
·         I have learned a lesson from my journey that we don’t know the actual person inside us!
·         What actually we think in mind will possible to do that?

·         Why we lose the hope without losing the things?
I was very excited at that time to start the best journey of my life and another side very scared inside thinking about the imaginary circumstances of my journey. The only thing that was going in my mind is about my reaction after when I will reach the top of the second highest mountain peak. K2 lies in the northwestern Karakoram Range. It is situated in the Baltistan district of Gilgit– Baltistan, Pakistan, and the Taxkorgan Tajik Autonomous County of Xinjiang, China. The Tarim sedimentary bowl fringes the range on the north and the Lesser Himalayas on the south. Liquefy waters from tremendous icy masses, for example, those south and east of K2, bolster farming in the valleys and contribute fundamentally to the provincial new water supply.
K2 is remarkable for its nearby help and in addition, it’s aggregate tallness. It remains more than 3,000 meters (9,840 ft) above a significant part of the icy valley bottoms at its base. It is a reliably soak pyramid, dropping rapidly in all headings. The north side is the steepest: there it ascends more than 3,200 meters (10,500 ft) over the K2 (Quire) Glacier in just 3,000 meters (9,800 ft) of flat separation. In many ways, it accomplishes more than 2,800 meters (9,200 ft) of vertical alleviation in under 4,000 meters (13,000 ft).

A 1986 campaign drove by George Wallerstein made an erroneous estimation mistakenly demonstrating that K2 was taller than Mount Everest, and thusly the tallest mountain on the planet. A revised estimation was made in 1987, yet by that point, the claim that K2 was the tallest mountain on the planet had officially made it into numerous news reports and reference works

 It’s my first climbing experience to the world’s most dangerous mountain which is K2 and also known as a deadly mountain. Another name of the K2 is Mount Godwin Austin; the name is given to the name of the climber who firstly climbed one of the highest mountains. K2 is simply positioned 22nd by topographic conspicuousness, a measure of a mountain's autonomous stature, since it is a piece of the same broadened zone of elevate (counting the Karakoram, the Tibetan Plateau, and the Himalaya) as Mount Everest, in that it is conceivable to take after away from K2 to Everest that goes no lower than 4,594 meters (15,072 ft), at the Kora La on the Nepal/China outskirt in the Mustang Lo. Numerous different pinnacles that are far lower than K2 are freer in this sense. It is, be that as it may, the most noticeable crest inside the Karakoram Range.
 The north edge of K2 is rarely climbed as a result of the trouble of arriving. It is on the Chinese side of K2 as opposed to the more well-known courses being on the Pakistan side. The Abruzzi Ridge is the most famous path for the individuals who make the summit of K2.
The main trouble toward the north edge is simply arriving. The Shaksgam River is a noteworthy deterrent. It can't be crossed amid a few months of the year. Camels are utilized to get to the Chinese base camp. What's more, if there is a mischance there would not be the assistance that there is on the Pakistan side from their armed force and government.
In the month of July which is the best time for climbing, we are confused to go with which path, there are various courses on K2, of to some degree distinctive character, yet they all offer some key challenges. The first being with a great degree high height and coming about the absence of oxygen: there is just a single third as much oxygen accessible to a climber on the summit of K2 as there is adrift level. The second is the penchant of the mountain to encounter extraordinary tempests of a few days span, which have brought about huge numbers of the passings on the pinnacle. The third is the lofty, uncovered, and conferring nature of all courses on the mountain, which makes withdraw more troublesome, particularly amid a tempest. Regardless of many endeavors, there have been no effective winter climbs. All significant climbing courses lie on the Pakistani side, which is additionally where base camp is found.
 The journey begins with the very rough and risky KKH road which is not like the highway roads but as a jeep track. The off-road track is the first step to go to the village of Askole. The Askole is the starting point of the trek which consists of the base camp of the K2. I was feeling very nervous while watching the faces of the peoples who came from different places for climbing. Before starting the journey, our bags are distributed to the army of porters, which carry our bags to the base camp which is not more than 20 kg.
I have listened somewhere that the most important thing in climbing is to climb with the good partners whom you know from other hard climbs. My journey was started with the group of 15 climbers and the first track was started from the Askole to the Jola, which is near about 7-8 hours distance of trekking.
As I have left the last village (Askole) and traveling to the world’s longest Baltoro glaciers, except the polar region which is near about the 58 km journey.  The Baltoro glacier is covered with glacier rubble that we call the moraine. It is about 4000m altitude, we have continuously walked for many days.
After reaching the K2 base camp point, I feel so relax and the positive energy came to our attitude as I can see the beauty of the highest peak. But I have to move in order to reach at the top of the mountain of the mountains. K2 is the huge mountain and have a creature, almost all the sides of the top of the mountain were covered with the clouds and it was the natural beauty that we are watching with my own eyes. The height of the K2 is 4 km higher than us at that position.
For climbing a mountain you must know ice & rock climbing very well, as well as being able to climb with a heavy rucksack at steep mixed terrain. We have provided some equipment which we have used to climb like Dozen of ice Screws, rock pitons, countless carabineers, snow stakes and good quality static rope for fixing on rocky sections. The most useful thing that I saw is the Korean Rope which is provided near about 6km of the plastic rope. We also provided the bamboo stakes which were bought from the Nepal, which is helpful to fix the tents in the higher camps.
Our kitchen storage tent carries vinegar to oil, toilet paper, spaghetti, sauces, cheese and all kind of canned food. These items are old food product and veggie which was supplied from the Askole. For the non- vegetarians, they have the facilities of the goat which they bought up to be slaughtered at the base camp. After settling all the equipment and the food materials, the Puja ceremony is compulsory for all the climbers for the motive to be safe journey and Pray Mountain God for the safe passage which is so enjoyable. This was the turning point in my life as my mind was fully changed what I thought is different from what actually I was facing.


As I have started my climbing from the Abruzzi Spur route which is one of the dangerous routes for the climbers. There are 4 camps to reach the bottleneck of the peak and to reach the K2 summit. The Camp 1 was the height of 6100 M, the Camp 2 is 6700 M above, the third Camp is about 7550M and the last camp 4 is 7980 M. The fourth camp is also considered as the shoulder of the peak and it is the last camp and after the camp bottleneck come which is above the camp 4 and above this K2 summit arrive which is 8611 M high.
When I was started from the Camp 1 everything seems to be going well as it is the beginning route for the track and I have full support from the instructors and from the partners. The worst thing in this climbing was that we don’t have to look back if any one of the partners was not following. The slow rainfall was going and it was also dangerous as a serac piece is as big as a house and can crush us instantly without giving any warning. Still, we are moving without any fear of losing life and singing songs to make the journey of climb interesting. It was the first experience ever, no one knows what will happen in future but our main motive was to move on. I always considered as a good tracker and have experience in several rock climbing and few mountain climbing, but I haven’t experienced this type of climbing. The sun was providing sold winds there’s not any effect on the weather just few degree up and we are focusing on our foot to be placed in the right area. The tracking was seemed like chasing one another on the same route and giving strength to the next person.
I finally reached the camp 2 after completing the journey of 6 hours but some of them are still at the route. The instruction was given to us to be inside the camp as they forecasted that some avalanches will occur soon. 12 out of 15 reached at the camp but 3 are still in the route, we are trying to communicate with them but we failed every time. Suddenly the avalanches occur, we are so scared not even have the power to say a single word. Just thinking about the 3 partners and the never forgettable seen that we saw there, one of the climbers was reached at the point but the bulk of snow takes him back to the deep. At that moment we just hold the hands of each other and just praying to the God to make everything alright. That night was the horrible night for us and we are just hoping for the next day.
At the next morning, we all decided to return back not even a single climber was ready to go up. This is our last decision to pack bags and return to the home, the last night experience was so disappointed. Everyone was complaining about the left partners we haven’t tried to save them if avalanches will come again none of us will alive. At that situation, one of our instructors said only one thing that ‘we will not force you to go back but think once if we return back, the whole of your life you will feel like a ‘Looser’. And if you reached the peak you will live like a ‘Hero’. The choice is yours to be a Hero or a Looser.’ After thinking the entire day, some of them decided to go back and now the 8 climbers are ready to go forward as we are here to tackle the problem not to avoid it.
Our next mission is to reach at the Camp 3 which is 7550 M and 850 M high from the Camp 2. The mountains do not always make a favor of mankind, we have learned a lesson there to not to give up easily face the circumstances and make yourself as good to tackle any type of situation. In this route, we are just going with a motive to not to stop whatever the condition may occur. The several dead bodies are found in every place which was caused by the avalanches but we are strong enough to handle all the situations. The camp 3 is also considered as the Black Pyramid because it consists of the vertical climbing on mixed ice and rock in a region. Most of the climbers named it as the technical section of the climb. While going to the black pyramid, we have faced so many problems as it seems to be impossible to climb but the support of the partners give strength to climb it. How far we are going to the top, the weather conditions and circumstances were getting bad. Simultaneously we are getting ill at that point and having lots of problems while breathing. One of us decided to stop climbing and go back but we are at that condition we can’t focus on other, the first priority was ourselves and the second is others. The cold air was one of the biggest problems of trackers when the cold wind came in contact of faces of the climbers that was the worst experience which was making us hopeless. The temperature was near about -25’C that was so high, we haven’t faced the temperature before that. When we reach to the Camp 3, an excitement and some positive energy came to our mind. We all are safe and fully tired and so hungry that can’t wait for the food to be cooked. The mind became like we have to complete a mission for any cost and now our focus is to reach K2 Summit. The best part of this climbing was that we all have supportive partners and really a good understanding exists between us. At the night we have enjoyed a lot and everyone was talking about their self-experience and entire life. For so many days of the climb, we all are emotionally attached to each other and we are acting like a big family. Everyone has experienced that we can’t go alone at the top our togetherness will definitely help all of us. We have made a promise that we all have to reach at the top to enjoy our success.
We are ready to start climbing in the very next morning. Everyone has a hope in mind and instructions was provided to us that the next point is Camp 4 which is about 7980 M from the starting point. This point is considered as the shoulder of the peak and it is one of the most dangerous areas for the tracking. Above the Black Pyramid, it’s very hard to navigate the slopes and it was the extremely dangerous experience. We can see the shoulder point but the area was covered with full of dangers. The most of the deaths occur in that area is due to Avalanches, fall from the mountain, altitude illness, disappearance etc.
We started our climbing with the hope to reach the camp 4 without losing any of the partners. 2 climbers get ill and not in the condition to join us so they have decided to stay at that point not to track with us, so we left them with the expert and we started cheering up to boost our self and make journey successful.
Six of us started climbing with the instructors, we are so happy to be one of them who have reached at that point. The weather was not as good as the little snow rainfall was going but we have decided to move on. One of our instructors sings a poem which touches our heart.
 The poem was:
 “Never lose your hope, we are just near.
Trust yourself, we are there.
The life will end one day, just achieve the goal you want.
If you stop at the point, where will you go?
If you keep moving, you will at the top.
And if you stop going, nothing will you get.”
This poem was entered into our heart, the most beautiful lines that I ever heard and this poem continuously going in our mind. After all, we are just a few meters far from the next point, but suddenly the instructor told us to move back it’s not safe to move ahead. This decision was so disappointing; we regret and still want to go forward. But they have given us the strict decision to move back and we have to accept it. Few of us not decided to move back and they are still going upward. The instructor forced and requested to go back but they regret the decision and keep moving. After few minutes, we saw that the huge amount of snow was falling at the other track where we rejected to go and that was really a shocking moment and we are thinking about our partners who go forward. We are unable to move from our position, we only thing can do was to saw the snow falling beside us. We safely go back to our starting point and saw that there’s not any member of our group. Back to back shocking moment make us weak and that was really a crying moment for all of us; we get hurt at that time and couldn’t know what to do next. We started searching for the partners but we are unable to go anywhere. Everyone was broke up and so much confusion about our tracking, it was the first time happening in the entire world that more death occurs in a single group of tracking. When we started our journey we are 15 and now only 4 are left. The instructor was also surprised about this incident and they made a decision to cancel the climbing and move back. They ordered us to pack up your bags we are moving back now; we don’t want to lose anyone one.



The turning point in my life came, I am unable to take a decision but I have thought if I will not reach at the top then what about my dreams and what about the partner's dreams that we lost in the journey. I took my final decision to move up and the first time I regret their decision. I have asked all of the 4 partners and the instructors to move with me, and I clearly said I will not stop now and if you also don’t want to phase the question of the people that is we really reached to the top or not then move on. The decision was pending for a long time and everyone wants the time to think about it. 2 of the partners gets ready and the rest of them decided to go back. I was feeling so positive at that time by getting the support from them. Finally, we started climbing to reach at the target at camp 4. It’s very difficult for us to track without instructors but I decided to climb or die here. We are moving at a straight line and following each other and in between, we communicate to know about the partner’s condition. I can name this Climbing as a ‘Deadly climbing’!
After a long track, we finally reached at the camp 4 which is popular as the shoulder point of the peak. I wanted to shout there and want to revels all the name of the partners and give a salute to them as they don’t give up instead of losing their lives.  I have learned lots of things in my journey, how to manage things, how to move in an instruction and how to handle the situations which I haven’t faced in my normal life. Now our next planning was to move to the bottleneck point of the peak which is the 2nd highest point of the K2. The name was given to this point as bottle neck as it seems like the neck of the peak after shoulder and it is one of the dangerous points that we have to face. In this point, there’s a straight track to climb which is the toughest part of the journey and the weather was extremely cold and we are facing the problem of breaths. There’s a lack of oxygen due to the high point of the mountain, we have to face the problems at this point.
Now our next thing was to make a plan on how to climb that peak. It was one of the hardest decisions to make a plan for that. We have started working on that and it’s not that time to perform the action rapidly.
I know the feeling of the cold winds and several mountains that covers us. We watched as the last sliver of sun traced the curvature of the Earth in a belt of dying flame. Two miles below, the striated expanse of the Baltoro Glacier was already dark, matching the cold interstellar blackness overhead. One by one, the massive peaks of the Karakoram winked out: Gasherbrum I and II, Broad Peak, Muztagh and Trango Towers, Chogolisa. Then the sun vanished, and the brief twilight swallowed the mountain on which they stood: K2, the highest and least forgiving in the range.
We are living like we don’t know at what point our journey will end. But we realize that if we haven’t done anything new then there’s not a purpose of life. We are recalling all the past instructions of the instructors and remembering our partners that were so emotional moment again, it’s very hard to saw the person dying in front of you who was attached to you. Now we have to move on forgot what we have faced and just focus on our next point. We have taken two days to make a great plan according to our experience and now it’s time to follow the plan.
On the next day, we started our climbing, it was our first personal experience to execute the plan. So we pray the mountain God to make us safe and keep away from all the disasters. We all are fully tired, physically as well as mentally week and the only thing which we have to move was hope. We started slowly while instructing each other according to the plan. The avalanches were going in the other side of the mountain as the sound of heavy snow was coming. We still moving and just singing the song that our instructors sing, this song gives a good motivation to move and also touches the heart and us only capable to think whether reach at the point or die. Our plan was going successfully with only one hope in the mind that to be reached at the point safely and with all the partners. Suddenly I saw that the point has come and finally we reached at the bottleneck of the peak. We knew they had just seen something no sane mountaineer would ever wish to witness: a sunset from above 27,000 feet. The one who lives here is precious to describe their stories. At that altitude every breath is a labor; each lungful of air holds only a third of the oxygen at sea level. Our bodies and brains were already beginning to shut down, and the coming darkness would bring brutal, minus-40-degree cold that would singe any exposed flesh.
At that point, our minds were flashed out and I don’t even believe that I was at the highest point of the mountain, that experience has made us the strongest one and we don’t feel fear of anything. That was the point to appreciate our decision to move forward, we want to say to all the partners to enjoy the success with us but there’s no one only we three are relaxing at the neck of the mountain. I feel very special to be one of the climbers to reach the point. But the final point for which we are struggling was remaining. We are just a few meters away from our final destination and don’t know what will happen in the future.
The final point was just a few meters away and after reaching the bottleneck we relax 3 hours to make us mentally fit for the rest of the journey. I was becoming weak day by day and now I don’t even think that I will reach at the point. I loosed all of my hope and inside I am prepared to quit climbing at any time. I don’t know what suddenly happens to my body I am not able to do anything just only one thing was coming in my mind to stop the journey and move back. The lots of pressure on the mind were the reason for my mental illness. I was thinking for my partners about their reactions and I don’t even understand what they try to say, I just only smile when they say something.
My mind was searching the reason:
How will I die?
And when will I die?
Did I reach the peak?
The most hilarious moment was that when you are near to your destiny and lose the hope. The same thing was going with me. I don’t know why but I cried inside and insanely dying. I can’t even have the strength to enjoy that time. Just lying on the snow and thinking deeply.

The last stage of the journey was started and we are moving step by step. I was moving behind the partners with a silent mind and nothing to speak. That was one of the most dangerous experiences that I have to face. We only have the last words in the mind if any circumstance occurs or any of us will not be alive then the other should write the name of that person. At the beginning of the climbing, we haven’t faced any of the problems. We are just tired so it’s a basic problem for the climber after that one of us starts falling down and the rope was left from his hand and he was going at the force downward. We shouted continuously but nothing happens and we lost one of our climbers at the ending point. We are so disappointed and having water in our eyes just remembering the last moments of all of the three. And we thought that we had done the wrong decision to climb more. I am fully tired and thinking that the same will happen to me. I don’t even have the power to climb 100 M from there. This is the worst condition that we are facing. The question that was going in our mind was what will we do at the peak? Do we enjoy or we feel sad for the climbers? When I asked the last climber what he was thinking at that time then he replied: “I don’t know what I will get while reaching at the point as I lost most of the things while climbing at the peak.” Well! He was absolutely right as we have lost all the things and what will we get while reaching at the peak. But we continued our journey and carry moving. Now, we both are supporting each other and moving step by step. Nearly 50 M was left and we are not in the condition to move upward. At that point, I became weaker and I decided to not to climb and said to the other please take this flag and when you reach the peak please host this with my name. He said, don’t be stupid now come to follow me I will help you to lift up. I neglected and forced him to move on. I am fully tired now; my journey was ended at that point. It was the time to think about the past memories of my family and about this journey. I give up finally; I don’t know when I will fall down just holding the rope and adjusted in the position. This was also the turning point of my life; I lose keep trying whether the point is so near. Suddenly a shoe came down and hit my head, I was unable to see this clearly but I open my eyes and saw that this was the shoe of my partner. I think he was reached at the point, inside I was feeling very happy but on the other side, I am having the failure of my journey. I heard a whispering sound of the low voice which says that “LOTS OF LIFE ENDS IN THIS CLIMBING, BUT NO ONE ALIVE MORE AFTER LOSING HOPE! I THINK YOU ARE THE ONE WHO IS ALIVE AFTER LOSING HOPE. TRUST ME! YOU CAN DO IT.”




I open my eyes and just searching the person behind the voice. But I can’t see anybody there it’s so surprising whose voice was this? Finally, I have decided to start putting my efforts to move and if my death came I will accept at any point. By making little steps I started and moving up again. While remembering the song I am making my mind positive. Only one thing was moving in my mind to move on and move on. And with huge efforts, I finally reached the top of the peak and saw that my partner was lying on the path of the peak and carrying the flag which was given by me. There was no one whom I can say that I was reached to the K2. Not even I am excited not even happy, but I will be the hero of my life.

 “The thing that we learn from the experience is far different from the things that we learn from the others”
This line was one of the greatest lines ever. It shows the difference between the self-experience and the experience of the others. If you fall in every stage you will learn something in every stage, and if you move without falling you will not learn, you just complete the work but not learned anything. So, the lesson that we learn from the journey was it's very difficult to climb rather than watching someone who is climbing. The best part of this journey was that voice which forced me to move on and this journey was a memorable and one of the best journeys of the life.
The silence at the top of the peak and the scene from the top is always being in my mind. And I will never forget those brave climbers who have started the journey with me and stay there forever.
“And the most important thing that I have got was the answer to my 3 questions which I have asked myself before the journey started.”